DISPATCHES

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09.Clayton Cubitt
Helmut Newton lived a huge life. He learned photography in the decadence of Berlin in the '30s, then fled from the Nazis as they took power, and sailed to refuge in Singapore. That’s a whole fucking life right there. Most people would feel happy if that was their finished biography.

Not Helmut Newton. He had to go on and change the face of both fashion and photography. He got Vogue to publish pictures that would make a dominatrix blush. At the height of the feminist '70s, he published a picture of a woman with a saddle on her back. (What’s more, she looked quite satisfied about it.) He even mainstreamed medical fetishism, using halos, leg braces and casts in his nude portraits. For the second half of the twentieth century, Newton dominated the niche he helped define and perfect. In this arena, the space he occupied was vast.
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